Essaouira

Essaouira is Morocco's most laid-back coastal city, a UNESCO-listed medina where Atlantic breezes carry the sound of Gnaoua music and the scent of grilled sardines. Known historically as Mogador, the city was rebuilt in the 18th century by Sultan Mohammed III to a European-influenced grid plan, making it one of Morocco's most navigable medinas. The Portuguese-built ramparts (skala) face the crashing Atlantic, their cannon-lined battlements offering panoramic views of the Iles Purpuraires offshore. Below, the fishing port is a riot of blue boats, squawking gulls, and the day's catch being auctioned. The adjacent fish market grills your selection on the spot for a few dirhams. Essaouira has long attracted artists, musicians, and free spirits. Jimi Hendrix visited in 1969 (the claim he inspired the song "Castles Made of Sand" here is debated but persists). Today, galleries line the alleyways of the medina, and the annual Gnaoua World Music Festival (June) fills the town with trance-like rhythms rooted in sub-Saharan spiritual traditions. The beach stretches for miles south of the medina, swept by consistent trade winds that make Essaouira one of the world's top destinations for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Beginners can take lessons from numerous schools along the beach. The winds moderate in summer but never fully stop. The town is also the center of Morocco's thuya woodworking industry. Workshops beneath the ramparts turn aromatic burl wood into boxes, chess sets, and tables using techniques passed through generations. The Cooperative Artisanale offers fixed prices and a chance to watch artisans at work.