Where do I buy thuya wood products (Essaouira)?

Thuya wood is Essaouira’s signature craft, and the breezy Atlantic town is genuinely the place to buy it — the thuya tree grows in the hills around Essaouira, and the city has specialised in working its wood for generations. What makes thuya special is the burl: the gnarled root and base of the tree produces a dense, swirling, almost marbled grain and a warm, lasting cedar-like fragrance. Lift a freshly made box to your nose and the scent is unmistakable; that aroma is part of why people fall for it.

The place to shop is the cluster of marquetry workshops tucked under the sea ramparts (the Skala) and threaded through the medina. There you can watch artisans turn bowls on simple lathes, and inlay boxes, chess and backgammon boards, picture frames, trays and little keepsake boxes with contrasting woods, mother-of-pearl and lemonwood in fine geometric patterns. The craftsmanship at the better workshops is exquisite, and because Essaouira is the source, the range and the prices are the best you will find anywhere in the country for thuya.

I do want to be honest about sustainability, because it matters with this wood. Thuya is slow-growing and has been over-harvested, and the precious burl in particular cannot simply be replanted on demand, so responsible workshops increasingly work from managed, sustainable sources and use the burl sparingly as decorative veneer over other woods. Buy from established, reputable workshops who can talk about where their wood comes from, rather than encouraging the cheapest mass pieces, and treat a beautiful thuya box as the heirloom it is meant to be.

My practical guidance: shop in Essaouira itself if your route allows, buy from a working marquetry atelier where you can see the inlay being done, and check the joins and hinges on boxes and the smoothness of the inlay. The smaller pieces — boxes, coasters, chess sets, bowls — travel home easily and make lovely gifts, and the scent lingers for years. Keep thuya out of direct sun and away from harsh dry heat so it does not crack, and a tiny rub of oil now and then keeps the grain glowing.