What is Café Hafa in Tangier, and is it worth a visit?

Café Hafa sits on the cliff top a short walk from the Kasbah, overlooking the Bay of Tangier. It opened in 1921 and has kept its original, unfussy style: several levels of terraces stepping down the slope, plain tables and chairs, and an open view across the Strait of Gibraltar. On a clear day the Spanish coast around Tarifa is visible in the distance.

Its fame comes from the people who have sat there. Past visitors listed for the café include the writer Paul Bowles, who lived in Tangier for decades, William S. Burroughs, the Spanish writer Juan Goytisolo, Sean Connery, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones. The Spanish musician Luis Eduardo Aute even wrote a song about it, "Hafa Café", on his 1992 album Slowly. Those names belong to the era when Tangier drew artists and writers from around the world, and the café is one of the places where that story still feels close.

So is it worth a visit? Yes, if you go for what it is. Café Hafa is not a smart café. The terraces are simple, the menu is short, and most people order mint tea and sit for an hour watching the ships pass through the Strait. Local students, families and friends use it as much as visitors do, especially in the late afternoon and at weekends, which is part of its charm. If you are looking for a polished terrace with a full menu, you will find more comfortable options elsewhere in the city.

The best time is the late afternoon on a clear day, when the light falls across the water and the terraces fill up. Haze and sea mist often hide the Spanish coast, especially in summer, so the famous view of Spain is not guaranteed. On a busy day you may wait for a table; it is worth it.

Café Hafa is a short walk from the Kasbah, so it fits easily at the end of a walk through the medina and the Kasbah. Opening hours and what the café serves can change, so check locally, and bring cash. Dress for the wind, which can be fresh on the cliff even on a warm day.