Serenity Morocco

How Fes blue pottery and zellij are made, what to buy, how to spot quality, prices, shipping, and visiting the Ain Nokbi potters' quarter.
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Fes is the home of "bleu de Fes," the deep cobalt-blue pottery hand-painted on a white tin glaze that has been made in the city for roughly a thousand years. The craft is centered today in the Ain Nokbi potters' quarter just outside the medina, where artisans still shape, double-fire, and hand-paint pieces using techniques largely unchanged across the centuries.
There is a particular blue that, once you have seen it, you recognize anywhere: rich, slightly violet, glowing against bright white. That is le Bleu de Fes, and it is as much a signature of this city as pastilla or the tanneries. Understanding how it is made, and how to tell the real thing from a tourist shortcut, turns a souvenir into something you will treasure for life.
Fes pottery is double-fired, and that extra step is the heart of its quality. Raw clay is thrown or hand-shaped and fired once. The piece is then coated in a white tin-oxide glaze and hand-painted with cobalt-and-copper oxide pigment, traditionally using fine brushes — sometimes made from horsehair — to draw the intricate geometric and floral patterns Fes is known for. A second firing fuses the decoration permanently into the glaze, which is why genuine pieces keep their color and do not flake or fade.
The blue itself comes from cobalt oxide, often with copper, and the white from tin. The designs are not stencils; a skilled painter works freehand, which is why no two genuine pieces are ever quite identical.
Zellij (also spelled zellige) is the architectural mosaic tilework you see covering fountains, floors, and madrasa walls across Fes. It shares its roots with the pottery: the same clay base, the same mastery of color and geometry. The difference is in the finishing. Glazed tiles are hand-cut with a small hammer into precise shapes — stars, polygons, slivers — by craftsmen called maâlems, then assembled face-down into dazzling geometric panels. It is painstaking, mathematical work, and Fes is its spiritual capital.
A few honest checks separate a heritage piece from a hurried one:
Be honest with yourself about prices: they are negotiable in the souks and far less so in the larger "factory" showrooms. As a rough guide, expect small bowls and dishes to start at modest sums and rise quickly for large, heavily painted, or signed pieces; please treat any figure you read online as indicative and confirm current prices in person, as they vary by size, detail, and the day.
Travelers often report better value in the medina souks than in the factory outlets, where bargaining is limited. A reported example: a set of six cereal bowls negotiated to around 600 dirhams from an opening ask near 960 — useful only as a sense of how much room there can be, not a fixed rate. In a souk, a relaxed back-and-forth and a willingness to walk away are your best tools. In a cooperative showroom, prices are usually firmer because you are partly paying for guaranteed quality and a watchable process.
This is where good intentions break — literally. Ceramics are fragile and the medina is full of stories of pieces shattered in a suitcase. Two sensible options:
For large zellij tables or big lamps, shipping is almost always the right call.
The most rewarding way to buy is to first understand. The Ain Nokbi quarter, just outside the medina walls, is a genuine working district where a community of artisans shape, fire, paint, and cut tile across dozens of workshops and cooperatives. A visit lets you watch the wheel, see the kilns, and watch a maâlem chip zellij tiles by hand — and it makes whatever you buy afterward far more meaningful.
A cooperative visit is also the surest route to authenticity, because you are seeing the process rather than trusting a market stall. We arrange private artisan visits to working Fes pottery and zellij cooperatives as part of our journeys, with a guide to translate and a calm, no-pressure pace — browse our private tours to add one.
Fes pottery is one of Morocco's most enduring crafts, and seeing it made is half the joy of owning it. Let us pair a visit to a working cooperative with the medina's monuments and markets on a journey built for you. Explore our tours, see the full imperial cities circuit, or start a custom tour that puts artisans at the center of your trip.
What makes Fes pottery special? The signature cobalt "bleu de Fes" on a white glaze, applied by hand and locked in by a second firing. The double-firing and freehand painting give it depth and durability that printed ceramics lack.
How can I tell if Fes pottery is authentic? Look for hand-painted detail with slight irregularities, a solid feel and clean ring when tapped, an even glaze, and often an artisan's signature with "Fes" on the base. Perfectly uniform patterns suggest a printed piece.
Can I ship Fes ceramics home safely? Yes. Established workshops pack for export using foam and custom wooden crates and arrange courier shipping. Confirm cost, timing, and insurance in writing first. For small pieces, careful hand-carrying also works.
Where is the pottery actually made in Fes? In the Ain Nokbi potters' quarter just outside the medina, where many artisans and cooperatives shape, fire, and hand-paint pottery and cut zellij tile. It is the best place to see the full process.
Sources: Fez Pottery: The History of Fassi Pottery; Journey Beyond Travel: Fez Pottery; Tripadvisor: Buying Pottery in Fes.
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