Tangier

Housed in the former sultan's palace at the highest point of the medina, the Kasbah Museum occupies a stunning building dating to the 17th century. The collections span Tangier's history from prehistoric times through the Phoenician, Roman, Islamic, and colonial periods. The palace itself, with its tiled courtyards, carved stucco, painted cedar ceilings, and a peaceful Andalusian garden, is as impressive as the exhibits. The treasury room retains its massive carved wooden ceiling.

These partially natural, partially man-made caves sit on the Atlantic coast about 14 kilometers west of Tangier. According to legend, Hercules rested here after completing his twelve labors. The caves' most famous feature is the sea-facing opening shaped remarkably like the outline of Africa in reverse. Inside, the walls show marks from centuries of millstone quarrying by Berber craftsmen.

The northwesternmost point of the African continent, Cape Spartel is where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea. A 19th-century lighthouse built by the international community marks the headland, surrounded by forested hills and dramatic coastal cliffs. On clear days, the southern coast of Spain is plainly visible across the strait. The meeting of two bodies of water, visible in the different wave patterns, is a genuinely striking natural phenomenon.

The first American diplomatic property abroad, this building was donated by Sultan Moulay Suliman to the United States in 1821 and housed the American consulate until 1956. Now a museum and cultural center, it contains an eclectic collection of paintings (including works by Delacroix and Scottish painter James McBey), historical documents, maps, and memorabilia from the Paul Bowles wing. The building itself is a fine example of Moorish architecture with a central courtyard.

The bustling main square of Tangier sits at the junction of the old medina and the modern city. Named for the date Sultan Mohammed V made his famous speech here calling for Moroccan independence, the Grand Socco is the crossroads of Tangier life. Market vendors sell fresh produce, the Mendoubia Gardens provide a shaded escape, and the Cinema Rif cultural center anchors the square's artistic life.

This tiny square deep in the medina was once the epicenter of Tangier's International Zone, where spies, smugglers, writers, and artists rubbed shoulders in its cafes. William Burroughs wrote parts of Naked Lunch in a room nearby. Paul Bowles frequented Cafe Central. Tennessee Williams drank here. Today the square retains its atmospheric charm with its cafes, arched gateways, and the constant flow of medina life.

A peaceful green enclave adjacent to the Grand Socco, the Mendoubia Gardens were the grounds of the former International Zone administration. Enormous banyan trees with aerial roots, dragon trees, and lush subtropical plantings provide welcome shade. A statue of Ibn Battouta, the 14th-century Tangier-born explorer considered the greatest traveler of the medieval world, stands in the gardens.

The "Terrace of the Lazy" at the end of Boulevard Pasteur is one of Tangier's most celebrated viewpoints. From this elevated promenade, the panorama takes in the port, the bay, the beach, and across the Strait of Gibraltar to the mountains of Spain. On exceptionally clear days, the Rock of Gibraltar itself is visible to the east. Old cannons line the terrace, and a row of bronze plaques identifies the landmarks visible in each direction.

This Anglican church built in 1894 in Moorish style is one of Tangier's most curious buildings. The interior features the Lord's Prayer inscribed in Arabic above the altar, a ceiling of carved and painted cedar in Moroccan style, and stained glass depicting Moroccan scenes. The peaceful cemetery contains the graves of several notable figures, including Walter Harris, the Times correspondent whose accounts of Morocco remain essential reading.

Housed in the renovated former British Consulate, a handsome building dating to 1890, this museum presents rotating exhibitions of contemporary Moroccan and international art. The collection celebrates Tangier's long relationship with artists, from Delacroix and Matisse to contemporary Moroccan painters. The building itself, with its period architecture and sea views, is a significant draw.

Part of Tangier's massive urban renewal, the new marina and surrounding waterfront development has transformed the old port area into a modern leisure district. Yachts and sailing boats fill the harbor, and the waterfront promenade is lined with restaurants, cafes, and shops. The development has reconnected Tangier with its seafront in a way that was lost for decades.

Perched on terraces cascading down the cliff face above the Strait of Gibraltar, Cafe Hafa has been serving mint tea since 1921. The Rolling Stones drank here. Jimi Hendrix visited. Paul Bowles was a regular for decades. The cafe consists of nothing more than simple blue-and-white chairs on narrow concrete terraces overlooking the water, with the coast of Spain shimmering in the distance. No food, no fancy drinks - just tea and the view.

This restored Art Deco cinema on the Grand Socco has been transformed into a cultural center and arthouse cinema by the Cinematheque de Tanger. It screens international films, hosts film festivals, and contains a popular cafe-terrace with views over the square. The building's restoration is a model for Tangier's broader heritage conservation efforts.

A forested park on the hills west of Tangier near Cap Spartel, named after Ion Perdicaris, the Greek-American whose 1904 kidnapping by the Riffian chieftain Raisuli prompted Theodore Roosevelt's famous demand "Perdicaris alive or Raisuli dead." The park contains eucalyptus, pine, and cork oak forest, walking trails, and ocean viewpoints. It is popular with Tangier families on weekends.