What are the best rooftop and sunset views in Marrakech?

Marrakech is a rooftop city, and sunset from above is one of its great pleasures — the heat softens, the light turns gold, the call to prayer rolls across the rooftops, and the medina glows. The single most famous perch is the cluster of café terraces overlooking Jemaa el-Fna, the great square. Le Grand Balcon du Café Glacier is the classic, with a front-row view straight down onto the square as it ignites at dusk — the food stalls lighting up, smoke rising, the crowds and performers swirling below, the Koutoubia minaret catching the last light beyond. Get there a good while before sunset to claim a railing spot, because everyone knows about it.

My slightly contrarian tip, though, is that your own riad's rooftop is often the best seat in the house. Many riads have beautiful private terraces, and because they're tucked through the medina you get the same golden light, the same sea of rooftops and minarets, and often a view to the Koutoubia or, on clear winter evenings, the snow-capped Atlas Mountains on the horizon — all with a drink in hand and not a crowd in sight. When I plan a trip for someone who loves a sunset, I deliberately choose a riad with a great terrace, and we make a ritual of being up there with mint tea as the sun drops.

Beyond those, there's a whole scene of rooftop bars and restaurants. Around the Jemaa el-Fna and the medina, terraces like those at Nomad and Café des Épices give lovely elevated views over the rooftops and the souks at golden hour with good food and atmosphere. Over in Gueliz, the new town, some of the smarter hotels and rooftop bars (and the chic terraces around the area) offer a more modern, polished sunset with cocktails and a different skyline. The Pearl, El Fenn's celebrated terrace, and several boutique-hotel rooftops are favourites for a glamorous evening.

For the photographers specifically, the rooftop play is to arrive before sunset, shoot the warm golden light on the rooftops and the Koutoubia, then — crucially — stay put through blue hour, the 20 minutes after the sun has gone when the sky deepens to cobalt and the city lights come on. That's when Jemaa el-Fna and the minaret look their most magical, with the warm stall lights against the blue sky. Most people leave at sunset and miss the best frame.

A practical note: rooftop cafés on the square expect you to order something for the view, which is a fair and cheap trade for the spot. And tell us if a great rooftop matters to you — I'll make sure your riad has one worth staying in for, and point you to the right terrace for the evening you want, whether that's a humble mint tea over the square or a chilled glass watching the Atlas turn pink.