Is Fes good to visit in winter?

I send people to Fes in winter more often than they expect, because it shows you the real city. From December to February the tour buses thin out, the great monuments and the tanneries are blessedly quiet, and you walk the medina alongside Fassis going about their day rather than shuffling through crowds. The light in winter is gorgeous too — low, golden, slanting into the narrow derbs and across the green-tiled roofs from a viewpoint like the Merenid Tombs. For a city whose whole appeal is atmosphere, that quiet is a gift.

The honest catch is the cold, and it is colder than visitors imagine. Fes sits inland at altitude, so while daytimes are usually pleasant and sunny at around 12 to 17 degrees, the nights drop sharply to roughly 3 to 7, and a clear January night can feel bitter. The bigger issue is that traditional riads are built of stone around an open courtyard to stay cool in summer — which means they can be genuinely chilly in winter unless they have proper heating. I always tell guests to confirm there is real heating in the room, not just a token electric panel, before booking.

Rain is the other variable. Fes gets most of its modest annual rainfall in winter, and the medina’s steep, polished cobbles become slick when wet, so sensible grippy shoes matter. But these are showers between sunny spells rather than days of downpour, and a wet morning is the perfect excuse to linger over mint tea, duck into a hammam, or take a long lunch. Winter food in Fes is wonderful — this is harira and slow-cooked tagine weather, and the city does comfort food beautifully.

My honest verdict: winter is my quiet favourite for Fes, especially for travellers who care more about culture and calm than about lounging by a pool. You trade warm evenings for low prices, short queues and a more intimate, authentic medina. Pack a warm coat, layers, and proper shoes, choose a heated riad, and you will likely have a better experience than the summer crowds. Check current weather and that your riad heats the rooms before you commit.