Is Moulay Idriss worth visiting?

I always tell people the honest truth about Moulay Idriss: it's a beautiful, deeply atmospheric place, but it works best as half of a day, not a destination you build a whole trip around. It sits about 4km from the Roman ruins of Volubilis and roughly 30km north of Meknes, so the smart move is to do the two together — Volubilis for the morning light on the ruins, then up the hill to Moulay Idriss for lunch and a wander.

What makes it special is its standing in Moroccan life. This is the holiest town in the country, founded around the tomb of Moulay Idriss I, the great-great-grandson of the Prophet, who brought Islam to Morocco and started its first dynasty in the late 8th century. For centuries non-Muslims weren't even allowed to stay overnight. That sanctity is something you feel walking the steep white lanes — it's reverent and quiet in a way the big medinas aren't.

Be clear on one thing before you go: the shrine and the mausoleum complex at the heart of town are closed to non-Muslims. You can walk right up to the threshold and see the green-tiled roofs and the pilgrims, but you won't go in. What you can do is climb to one of the two terrace viewpoints (the locals will point you to them, sometimes for a small tip) for that postcard shot of the town spilling in two white waves across its twin hills, with the round minaret — Morocco's only cylindrical one — standing out below.

My verdict: absolutely worth the short detour if you're already going to Volubilis or basing yourself in Meknes or Fes. It's a genuine, un-touristy Moroccan town with terrific photos and a strong sense of place. But I wouldn't drive hours out of your way purely for it, and don't expect grand monuments to enter — the pleasure here is the atmosphere, the hilltop views and the cup of mint tea overlooking it all.