What is Rabat like in January?

I always tell people that Rabat in January surprises them. They picture "winter in Morocco" and brace for cold, but the Atlantic keeps the capital gentle — I am usually walking the Kasbah des Oudayas in a light jumper and a scarf, not a heavy coat. Daytime tops out around 17°C and the low winter sun throws this beautiful long gold light over the blue-and-white lanes, which is honestly when I love photographing them most.

The catch is the rain. January is one of the wettest months, but I want to be clear about what that means here: it is rarely all-day drizzle. It comes in off the ocean in bursts — a heavy half-hour, then the clouds break and everything smells washed-clean. I plan indoor anchors for the mornings (the Mohammed VI Museum of Modern Art, a long mint tea, the carpet souks under cover) and save the Hassan Tower and Chellah ruins for the bright afternoon windows.

What makes January genuinely special is the emptiness. I have stood almost alone inside the Mausoleum of Mohammed V with the guards in their red cloaks and had the whole Chellah necropolis — storks nesting on the minaret, wild fennel everywhere — practically to myself. No cruise crowds, no queues. Riads and the grander hotels drop their rates too, so this is when a luxury stay costs what a mid-range one does in spring.

Pack layers and a genuinely waterproof shell, not just a "water-resistant" jacket — and proper shoes, because the old-city cobbles get slick. Evenings turn cool quickly once the sun drops behind the river, so I keep a warm layer for dinner on the Bou Regreg waterfront. Pair Rabat with Fes or Casablanca rather than the High Atlas this month, where the passes can close with snow.