Is it OK to photograph people in the souks?

This is one of the most important things I tell every photographer heading into the medinas, because getting it wrong sours encounters and, frankly, isn't fair to the people who live and work there. The golden rule is simple: always ask before you photograph a person. Many Moroccans, for cultural and religious reasons and just ordinary preference, do not want their picture taken by a stranger, and pointing a lens at someone candidly — especially women, older people, or someone at prayer or work — can cause genuine offence or an angry reaction.

How you ask matters more than the words. A warm smile, a gesture toward your camera, a "photo?" with a questioning look, or a few words of Arabic ("mumkin sura?" — may I take a photo?) goes a long way. If they nod or smile, wonderful — and the resulting portrait, made with consent, is always better than a furtive grab shot anyway, because the person engages with you. If they shake their head, wave you off, or turn away, respect it immediately and move on without sulking or sneaking the shot. That respect is the whole etiquette.

Now the money part, because it trips people up. In tourist-heavy areas, photography has become a small economy. The famous water-sellers in their colourful costumes around Jemaa el-Fna, the snake charmers and performers, the henna ladies, and many posing vendors expect a tip of a few dirhams (say 10–20) if you photograph them — that's their understood livelihood, and it's only fair. Agree the expectation with a smile before you shoot rather than after, to avoid an awkward demand. For artisans and shopkeepers, the social lubricant is buying something or showing genuine interest first; a coppersmith or a carpet seller will usually happily let you shoot once you're a customer or a respectful guest rather than a tourist treating them as a backdrop.

A few situational notes from experience. Be especially careful and discreet — or simply don't — around women without clear consent, near mosques and religious activity, and with children (ask the parent). For street and market atmosphere, you can shoot wide scenes, stalls, hands at work, produce and architecture without singling out an identifiable face, which sidesteps most of the issue and often makes a stronger image anyway. A local guide is genuinely helpful here: they can ask permission on your behalf, explain you're respectful, and broker a friendly portrait that you'd never have got alone.

My honest framing: think of it as photographing in someone's neighbourhood, not a theme park. Ask, smile, respect the no, carry small change for the yes, and lead with human warmth rather than a raised camera. Do that and Moroccans are often delighted to be photographed and to chat — and those consented portraits, with the connection in the eyes, become the best images you bring home.