Is Marrakech nightlife any good?

Marrakech nightlife surprises people, usually pleasantly, as long as you arrive with the right expectations. This is a Muslim city where the historic medina largely winds down in the evening — alcohol is limited there, the souks shut, and the after-dark 'scene' in the old town is really the glorious chaos of Jemaa el-Fna's food stalls and a quiet drink on a licensed riad rooftop. If your idea of a night out is a buzzing medina bar crawl, that's not Marrakech. But that's only half the city.

Cross into Gueliz, Hivernage and the Palmeraie and a whole other Marrakech switches on. This is where the bars, sleek rooftop lounges, wine bars, hotel terraces and nightclubs live, and some of it is genuinely glamorous. For a memorable evening I often point people to a stylish rooftop for sunset cocktails with the Koutoubia and the Atlas on the horizon, then dinner. It's a polished, dress-up kind of scene more than a scruffy one — Marrakech does chic better than rowdy.

If you want a proper night out, there are a few institutions. Dinner-cabaret spots pair Moroccan food with music and a show for a theatrical evening, and the city has large, serious nightclubs — the kind near the Hivernage hotels and out toward the Palmeraie — that run late with international DJs, table service and a smart door. These can be pricey and you'll want to dress the part. Live music, jazz bars and hotel lounges fill the gentler end of the spectrum for those who'd rather sip than rave.

A few honest practicalities. Most of the nightlife is outside the medina, so plan on a taxi back to your riad — agree the fare first, and the lanes are quiet late, so have your location ready. Drinks at the upscale venues are expensive by Moroccan standards, dress codes apply at the clubs and smarter bars, and things start late, with clubs filling well after midnight. Bottom line: Marrakech isn't a hedonistic party capital, but for stylish rooftops, a good dinner-show and a late dance when you want it, it more than holds its own.