What currency does Morocco use, and what should I know about money there?

Morocco's currency is the dirham, abbreviated MAD and written locally as 'DH'. One dirham splits into 100 centimes, though in practice you'll think in whole dirhams. As I write, the rough conversion is roughly 10 dirhams to the US dollar and a little more to the euro, but always check the day's rate before you travel — it moves, and you want a current mental conversion so you can judge prices in the souk.

The crucial quirk is that the dirham is a 'closed' currency. That means it's officially restricted from being taken in or out of the country, so you generally can't buy meaningful amounts before you arrive, and you shouldn't try to leave with a wallet full of them. In reality this is easy to manage: change a little cash or withdraw from an ATM at the airport on arrival, top up from bank machines in the cities as you go, and convert any leftover dirhams back before you fly home.

Cash is still king in much of daily Moroccan life, and this trips people up. Souk vendors, grands and petits taxis, small cafés, tips, hammams and rural guesthouses overwhelmingly want dirhams in hand. Carry a spread of small notes and coins — trying to pay for a 20-dirham taxi with a 200-dirham note will get you a frustrated shrug. ATMs are plentiful in cities and towns, less so in the deep countryside and the desert, so stock up before heading off-grid.

Cards do work, just selectively. Mid-range and upscale hotels, riads, restaurants and modern shops take Visa and Mastercard happily; many add a small surcharge. I tell my guests to budget on a cash-first basis for the authentic experiences — the markets, the street food, the tips that smooth your way — and to keep a card as backup for the bigger, more formal payments. And always carry small change for the constant little courtesies and bargains that make Moroccan travel so much fun.