What do I wear for hiking in the Atlas?

The golden rule for the Atlas is layers, because the mountains do not behave like the cities below them. You can set off from a warm valley in a T-shirt and be in cold wind within an hour of climbing, then bake again on a sun-exposed traverse. So I dress hikers in three layers they can add and shed freely: a breathable, quick-drying base layer, a fleece or light insulated mid-layer for the cold stretches and the summits, and a windproof, ideally waterproof, shell on top. Even on a forecast-perfect summer day I never let a guest head up without that warm layer in the pack — mountain weather turns without asking.

Footwear is where people most often get it wrong. Proper hiking boots with ankle support and grip, broken in well before the trip, are worth their weight on the rocky, uneven trails and scree of routes like Toubkal and the Imlil valleys; trainers slip and bruise your feet, and brand-new boots guarantee blisters. Pair them with good hiking socks, and bring a second pair. On the legs, lightweight hiking trousers beat shorts for both sun and the modesty that matters when you pass through Berber villages and farmland — convertible trousers are a sensible compromise if you want airflow on the high open sections.

Sun and modesty travel together up here. The high-altitude sun is fierce even when the air is cool, so a brimmed hat, sunglasses and high-SPF sunscreen on every exposed bit of skin are essential — I have seen people burn badly on a "cold" day at altitude. At the same time, you are walking through traditional villages where people live, so covered shoulders and legs are simply respectful; for women a longer-sleeved top and full-length trousers strike the balance between practical sun cover and cultural good manners, and a light scarf doubles as sun, wind and modesty protection.

My honest packing list beyond clothing: at least two litres of water and a way to treat or refill it on longer days, high-energy snacks, a basic first-aid kit with blister plasters, a head torch if any part runs late, and sunblock you actually reapply. In the cooler months — and at the highest elevations year-round — add gloves, a warm hat and a heavier insulating layer, because nights and dawns are genuinely cold and snow lingers on the peaks well into spring. Conditions vary hugely by season and altitude, so check the forecast and ask your mountain guide what your specific route needs.