What is the Moroccan Mediterranean coast like?

The Moroccan Mediterranean is a different country from the imperial cities and the Sahara, and I always reset expectations before sending anyone here. This is sea-and-sun coast, Spanish-influenced and relaxed, where Moroccan families take their summer holidays rather than where tourists chase medinas. The water is warm and clear, the light is soft, and in low season much of it is gloriously, sleepily empty. Come to swim and unwind, not to tick off monuments.

The western end, near Tetouan, is the most developed — the strip from M'diq and Cabo Negro down to Martil and Fnideq is a run of marinas, apartment blocks and long sandy beaches that fill in July and August and largely shutter the rest of the year. It is pleasant and convenient, especially paired with a Tetouan medina visit, but architecturally thin. I rate Tetouan's whitewashed Andalusian medina far above its beaches as a reason to be in the area.

The scenic heart is Al Hoceima, halfway along the coast, where the rugged Rif mountains plunge straight into a turquoise sea. The Al Hoceima National Park protects dramatic cliffs, hidden coves and rare osprey; town beaches like Quemado sit right below the centre, and the prettier coves nearby need a short boat or drive. The vibe is laid-back and authentically Moroccan-Spanish, and out of season it is a delight. Further east, Nador and the Marchica lagoon are more functional, and Saidia, right against the Algerian border, is the big purpose-built resort — kilometres of flat golden sand, a marina and golf, lovely for families in high summer, half-asleep otherwise.

My honest verdict: the Mediterranean coast is well worth it if you are already up north — folding Al Hoceima or M'diq into a Tangier–Tetouan–Chefchaouen loop makes a beautiful summer journey — or if you want a beach finale. But it should not displace Marrakech, Fes or the desert on a first trip, and out of season some resorts feel shuttered. It suits beach-and-relax travellers and families more than culture-hunters.