What should women wear in the Sahara?

I get this question constantly, and the good news is that what's practical in the desert and what's culturally respectful happen to be the same thing. The desert sun is genuinely fierce, and covered skin stays cooler and burns far less than you'd guess — this is exactly why the Berbers and nomads wear long, loose robes rather than less clothing. So I steer women towards lightweight long trousers, a maxi skirt or dress, and long-sleeve tops in light colours and breathable fabrics like cotton and linen. Loose is the key word: it lets air move and keeps the sun off.

Modesty is worth a word too. On the way to the dunes you pass through small, conservative villages, and covering your shoulders and knees is respectful, helps you blend in and draws less attention. You don't need to cover your hair — the Sahara isn't a place where a headscarf is expected of visitors — but a large scarf is the single most useful thing in your bag. It shields your face and neck from sun, doubles as a dust mask when the wind kicks up on the dunes, and becomes a warm wrap once the temperature drops.

And drop it will. As I tell everyone, desert nights are cold for most of the year, so alongside your daytime sun-cover you need a proper warm layer — a fleece or light down jacket — plus a beanie and socks, even in spring and autumn. The way to dress for the desert is in layers you peel off as the day heats up and pile back on at dusk, because the swing between a baking afternoon and a chilly night is dramatic.

For footwear, closed shoes or trainers beat sandals on the dunes: midday sand can be scorching and night sand cold, and there's the odd bit of scrub and stone. You'll often go barefoot on the soft sand anyway, which is lovely, but have shoes for the walking. Round it out with sunglasses, a hat and high-SPF sunscreen. One last tip travellers love: pick up a Berber scarf or cheche locally — they're inexpensive, the colours are gorgeous, the vendors will show you how to wrap it for the sun, and it's a souvenir that actually earns its keep on the dunes.