What is there to do in Agadir besides the beach?

Agadir gets unfairly written off as "just a beach," so I like to show people how much sits around it. Within the town itself, start with Agadir Oufella — the hilltop site of the old Kasbah, largely lost in the 1960 earthquake but rebuilt as a viewpoint, now reachable by a cable car. The panorama over the whole bay, especially at sunset with the giant illuminated Arabic hillside inscription glowing below, is the best free-feeling experience in the city.

For everyday Moroccan life, the Souk El Had is one of the largest markets in the country — thousands of stalls of spices, argan oil, ceramics, leather and produce behind its grand gates. It is a real working souk rather than a tourist set-piece, and it scratches the "authentic Morocco" itch that the resort strip lacks. The Marina end of the beach is the polished counterpoint: yachts, restaurants and a relaxed evening promenade. Families also enjoy the Vallée des Oiseaux park and CrocoParc, a landscaped crocodile and botanical park just outside town.

But honestly, Agadir's biggest asset is its position as a launchpad. Within an easy drive you have Paradise Valley, a gorgeous palm gorge with natural rock pools for swimming in the foothills of the Anti-Atlas; the Souss-Massa National Park, where you can spot flamingos and rare birds along the coast; and the walled red town of Taroudant, often called "little Marrakech," for a dose of the old-Morocco atmosphere Agadir itself lacks. Just up the coast is Taghazout, Morocco's laid-back surf capital, perfect for a lesson or a day of beach-hopping.

My planning tip: think of Agadir as a comfortable base with sunshine guaranteed, then use guided or self-drive day trips to add the culture and nature. Two or three relaxed days in town plus a couple of excursions makes for a beautifully balanced southern Morocco week.