What should I pack for Morocco by season?

The one rule that survives every season in Morocco is: pack layers. This is a country of big daily temperature swings — warm or hot afternoons followed by surprisingly cold nights, especially in the desert and mountains — so the traveller who can add and shed layers is always comfortable, and the one who packs for a single temperature is always either sweating or shivering. Beyond that, a few things belong in every bag whatever the month: modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees for mosques, medinas, and rural areas; genuinely comfortable closed walking shoes for uneven medina cobbles; high-factor sun protection; and a refillable water bottle.

For spring and autumn, the shoulder of perfect weather, I tell people to pack mainly light, breathable clothes for warm days but never to forget that the nights cool off fast — a warm sweater or fleece and a light jacket are essential, and if the desert is on your itinerary, bring a properly warm layer because Saharan nights are cold even in May or October. A scarf is endlessly useful for sun, dust, cool evenings, and covering up at a religious site.

Summer packing is about defeating heat and sun: loose, light cotton or linen in pale colours, a wide-brimmed hat, good sunglasses, strong sunscreen, and swimwear for the riad pool and the coast. Even in summer, though, pack one light layer — Essaouira and the coast get breezy and cool in the evening, and air-conditioned interiors can chill you. Sandals are fine for the day, but bring closed shoes too for proper walking and the rougher medina lanes.

Winter is where people most often pack wrong, so I'm emphatic about it: bring real warm clothing — a proper coat, sweaters, a hat, even gloves if you're going to the mountains or desert — because the nights are cold, many riads have limited or no heating, and the Atlas can be under snow. You'll still want sunglasses and a sunhat for the bright mild days, so it's layering again: shed down to a shirt at midday, bundle up after dark. Across all seasons, leave a little room in the case — you will want to bring home a rug, a lantern, spices, or babouches, and everyone does.