Where do locals eat in Marrakech?

The first thing I tell food-curious guests is that locals almost never eat at the photogenic terrace restaurants ringing Jemaa el-Fnaa — those are aimed squarely at visitors. Real Marrakchi eating happens in humbler, busier, cheaper places, and seeking them out is one of the great pleasures of the city. The rule of thumb is simple: follow the crowds of Moroccan workers and families at lunchtime, look for a queue and a quick turnover of plates, and you'll eat better and pay a fraction of the tourist price.

For an iconic local feast, head to "Mechoui Alley," the little lane of slow-roast lamb stalls just off Jemaa el-Fnaa near the Spice Square. You point at a hunk of mechoui (lamb roasted for hours in underground ovens), they hack off a portion, weigh it, hand you bread, cumin and salt, and you eat it standing or perched on a bench. It's unfussy, deeply Moroccan and gloriously good. Nearby in the souks you'll find tiny snail-soup carts (a local obsession), harira soup stalls especially in the cooler months, and grills sizzling with kefta, merguez and brochettes.

For sit-down local food, leave the main square and explore the edges of the medina and the modern city. The streets around Bab Doukkala and the Mellah (the old Jewish quarter) hide no-frills grill houses and tagine kitchens where families eat. In Gueliz, the new town, locals fill brisk lunch spots and snack bars serving sandwiches, salads and daily plats du jour at honest prices — this is everyday Marrakech, not tourist Marrakech. And don't miss a tanjia: the city's signature "bachelor's stew" of meat slow-cooked in a clay urn in the embers of the hammam furnace, traditionally a workers' dish, found at specialist spots and some local eateries.

A few tips to eat like a local with confidence. Go where it's busy and the food is cooked fresh in front of you — high turnover means freshness, which is your best safeguard. Eat your main meal at lunch, as that's the big Moroccan meal and when the local kitchens are at their best and most generous. Carry small notes, because these places are cash-only and inexpensive. Try the bread-based street snacks: msemen (flaky pan pancakes), harcha (semolina griddle bread), and bissara (fava-bean soup) for breakfast from a hole-in-the-wall. And don't fear the simple places; some of the best food in Marrakech costs almost nothing.

My honest steer: skip the over-priced square terraces for a real meal, and instead seek out the grills, soup carts, Mechoui Alley, the tanjia spots and the workers' canteens of the Mellah, Bab Doukkala and Gueliz. That's where Marrakech actually eats — and it's tastier, cheaper and far more memorable. A guided street-food walk is the fastest way to find these spots safely on your first day; after that you'll happily hunt your own.