What is the best time to visit Ait Ben Haddou?

Ait Ben Haddou — the great fortified kasbah village near Ouarzazate, a UNESCO site and the most filmed location in Morocco — is best visited between October and April, with spring and autumn the absolute pick. In those months the days are warm, dry and sunny, ranging from the high teens in winter to the high 20s°C in spring and autumn, which makes the real business of the place — climbing the steep, earthen lanes up to the granary at the top — comfortable rather than gruelling. And the famous light that drew the film crews is at its most golden and forgiving then.

The single biggest factor at Ait Ben Haddou, alongside season, is time of day — so let me fold that in. This is the busiest sight in the Moroccan south, and it bakes shadeless under a high sun, so the magic move in any season is to come at first light or in the late afternoon. Early morning gives you the kasbah glowing in soft light, the river crossing quiet, and the towers almost to yourself before the tour buses arrive from Marrakech around mid-morning. Late afternoon gives you the warm sunset light and the crowds thinning again. Midday is the worst of both — hottest and busiest.

Spring and autumn earn the top billing because they pair that comfortable warmth with the best scenery. In spring the surrounding valley is green and the High Atlas behind is snow-capped, a stunning contrast against the ochre kasbah; in autumn the light is superb and the date palms below are heavy and lush. Winter works well too for the days — warm, clear, quiet — though you'll want warm layers for the cold mornings and evenings, and the early light is worth the chilly start.

Summer is where I push back hardest. June to August brings 38°C-plus heat and no shade whatsoever on the climb up to the granary, which turns a wonderful site into an ordeal if you arrive at the wrong hour — and even then it's tough. If summer is your only option, treat a dawn visit as non-negotiable, carry lots of water, and wear a hat and sun protection. But for the easiest, most beautiful experience, come in October or April, arrive early or late, and Ait Ben Haddou will live up to every photograph you've seen.