Do I have to haggle for everything in Morocco?

The fear that you must battle over every dirham puts a lot of first-timers on edge, and it is simply not true. Haggling lives in one place: the traditional souk, where you are buying rugs, lamps, leather, ceramics, spices, and souvenirs. There the opening price is a starting point and the back-and-forth is genuinely part of the experience — even, when done with a smile, a small pleasure.

Everywhere else, prices are fixed and bargaining would be odd. Supermarkets, pharmacies, chain shops, museum tickets, and sit-down restaurants all charge what is on the label or menu. Trying to negotiate your pharmacy bill or your tagine just confuses everyone. My rule of thumb: if there is a price tag or a till, you pay it; if there is a smiling vendor and no tag, the dance is on.

When you do haggle, keep it light and friendly. I decide what the item is worth to me first, counter the opening price at roughly half, and meet somewhere in the comfortable middle. If the number is not right, a warm "thank you" and a slow walk toward the door is the most powerful tool there is — and walking away genuinely happy without buying is completely fine.

Taxis deserve a special note. In the big cities, petit taxis have meters, so politely ask the driver to switch the meter on rather than negotiating. For longer journeys or grand taxis where there is no meter, agree the fare before you climb in. Knowing the rough going rate from your riad beforehand turns a potential hassle into a non-event.