What is greeting etiquette in Morocco (handshakes, cheek kisses)?

Greetings in Morocco are unhurried and heartfelt, and getting them right sets the tone for every interaction. The standard greeting is a handshake with the right hand, frequently softer and longer than a brisk Western grip, and very often followed by lightly touching your own right hand to your heart — a gesture that means "I greet you with sincerity." I teach every client this hand-on-heart move because it is universally understood, always appropriate, and works beautifully even when a handshake might not be. Pair it with "salam alaikum" (peace be upon you), to which the reply is "wa alaikum salam," and you have started on exactly the right foot.

Cheek kisses are common but governed by gender and familiarity. Between friends and family of the same sex — woman to woman, man to man — you will see warm cheek kisses, sometimes two, sometimes several alternating sides, especially in cities. Between men and women who are not close family, physical greeting is more reserved, and this is where I always advise visitors to let the Moroccan, and particularly the woman, lead. A Moroccan woman may happily shake your hand, or she may instead place her hand over her heart and offer a warm smile, signalling she prefers no contact. Reading and respecting that cue is the whole game; never push a handshake on someone who has gestured otherwise.

The other thing that catches Westerners off guard is the length of the greeting itself. Moroccans do not simply say hello — they ask after your health, your family, your journey, often layering several questions and blessings ("labas? kulshi labas?" — are you well, is everything well?) before any business begins. Rushing this feels cold. I encourage clients to slow down, return the questions, and enjoy the ritual; it is genuinely one of the warmest things about Moroccan life. Using a few Arabic or Darija phrases — "shukran" for thank you, "bsslama" for goodbye — earns delighted smiles everywhere.

A few practical refinements from experience. Always use the right hand for handshakes and for accepting anything offered. With elders, a slight bow of the head or the hand-to-heart shows extra respect. In rural and conservative areas, default to the hand-on-heart gesture rather than reaching out, especially across genders, until you read the room. And do not be thrown if a man holds a handshake for a long moment or takes your arm as you walk and talk — between men this is ordinary friendliness, not awkwardness. Lean into the warmth, mirror what your host does, and greetings quickly become a highlight rather than a worry.