How do I haggle for a taxi fare?

The first thing I want you to know is that you often should not have to haggle at all. For petit taxis inside a city, the legal fare is the meter ("compteur"), and asking for it firmly and pleasantly is almost always the cheapest, simplest outcome. So step one is always "compteur, s'il vous plaît." Haggling only really comes into play when a driver refuses the meter, for grand taxis between towns, or for set runs like airport transfers — and even then, knowledge beats negotiation.

That knowledge is your single biggest lever: find out the real fare before you start. Ask your riad or hotel "what should a taxi from here to the train station cost?" and now you have a number. The opening quote a driver gives a tourist is frequently two or three times the going rate, and without a benchmark you are negotiating blind. With one, you can smile and say "no, it is usually thirty dirhams" and watch the price fall toward reality. I always ask reception for these numbers before heading out somewhere new.

When you do negotiate, the rhythm is relaxed and a little theatrical, never aggressive. Let the driver name a price first if you can. Counter well below it — but not insultingly — and meet somewhere in the middle. Keep it warm and good-humoured; a smile and a bit of patience get you a better price than irritation ever will. And here is the most powerful move of all: be genuinely willing to walk away. The moment you turn toward the next taxi, the "final" price often drops. There is always another cab, and drivers know it.

Two non-negotiables that prevent the classic disputes. Agree the exact number out loud before you open the door — never "we'll sort it out at the end," because that always ends with a higher figure and an argument. And confirm whether the price is total or per person, especially in shared grand taxis where "fifty" might mean fifty each. Carry small notes so you can pay the agreed amount precisely; handing over a big note invites a "no change" round-up. Do all that and you will pay close to what locals pay, with no drama and usually a friendly chat thrown in.