What is mosque / religious site etiquette in Morocco?

This surprises many first-time visitors, so I always explain it early: unlike in Turkey or Egypt, non-Muslims are generally not permitted to enter functioning mosques in Morocco. It is a long-standing convention rather than hostility, and once you know it you simply admire the great mosques — the Koutoubia in Marrakech, the Karaouine in Fes — from the outside, where the minarets and gateways are stunning anyway. The famous and wonderful exception is the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, one of the largest in the world, which welcomes visitors on scheduled guided tours; it is genuinely worth building into an itinerary, and a glimpse inside that vast hall stays with you.

Where you can go — religious sites that admit non-Muslims, such as the Hassan II Mosque, certain madrasas (Quranic colleges like Bou Inania and Ben Youssef), zaouias open to visitors, and the mausoleums — modesty is the watchword. Cover shoulders and knees; for women I suggest a scarf to hand in case it is wanted, and inside the Hassan II Mosque you will remove your shoes and carry them, so easy slip-ons save a lot of fuss. Speak softly, switch your phone to silent, and move calmly. These are living places of faith, not museums, even when they are architecturally jaw-dropping.

Timing and behaviour matter. The five daily prayer times briefly change the atmosphere of a whole town — you will hear the call to prayer ring out, and around Friday midday prayers the medina near a large mosque grows busy with worshippers. Step aside, do not walk through a row of people praying, and never let a camera intrude on someone mid-prayer; if you want a photograph of a beautiful courtyard, take it when it is empty of worshippers. At the madrasas, photography of the architecture is welcome and the carved cedar, zellij tilework and stucco are extraordinary.

A quiet point I always make: respect at religious thresholds opens doors elsewhere. Moroccans are deeply hospitable and notice when a visitor behaves with grace around their faith. I have had guides invite clients to hear about Sufi traditions, or pause to explain the meaning of a saint's shrine, precisely because those travellers had shown they understood where the line was. Follow your guide's lead, ask questions with genuine curiosity rather than judgement, and you will come away understanding Morocco far more richly than the visitor who treats every doorway as a photo opportunity.