Riad or hotel in Morocco — which is better?

After years of placing guests in both, my honest answer is that it's less which is better and more which suits this particular stop. A riad is a traditional Moroccan house built around an interior courtyard, usually beautifully restored, tucked inside the old medina. Staying in one is an experience in itself — intricate tilework and carved plaster, a plunge pool or fountain in the courtyard, a rooftop terrace for breakfast and sunset, and a small, attentive staff who often treat you like family. For atmosphere and authenticity, nothing a chain hotel offers comes close.

But I'm candid about the trade-offs. Riads sit inside the medina, which means you arrive at the edge and walk (or have your bags wheeled) through pedestrian lanes to reach them — charming, but a faff with heavy luggage or limited mobility. Rooms can be smaller, some inner ones get little natural light, older buildings can be chilly in winter, and there's no lift, no big pool, and the medina's nighttime soundscape and dawn call to prayer are part of the deal. They're intimate, not resort-like.

A modern hotel earns its place when you want space, predictability and facilities — a proper pool to cool off in, a lift, on-site parking, a gym or spa, easy taxi access, and consistent international standards. For a beach stay in Agadir or Essaouira, a one-night airport stopover in Casablanca, a family needing connecting rooms and a pool to burn off energy, or anyone who values reliability over romance, a good hotel is simply the better tool.

My standard recommendation is to blend the two: riads in the historic cities where the magic lives, like Marrakech and Fes, and hotels or resorts where space and facilities matter more, like the coast or a transit night. That way you get the soul of Morocco where it counts and the comfort of a hotel where it counts. If you can only choose one style for a city trip, though, I'd take a well-run riad every time — it's the memory people talk about long after they're home.