What's the practical etiquette for using a public hammam in Morocco?

First, the basics of how a neighbourhood public hammam works, because it's different from a spa. It's a communal steam bath at the heart of local life, with strictly separated bathing for men and women — either entirely different sides or, more often, different hours of the day for each, so check the times before you go. You pay a small entry fee (just a handful of dirham) at the door, and you can usually buy your bathing kit right there or at a shop alongside: savon beldi (the dark olive-oil "black soap"), a kessa (the coarse exfoliating glove) and sometimes ghassoul clay. Spa hammams in riads provide everything; the public bath, you bring or buy your own.

On what to take and wear: pack flip-flops (the floors are wet and hot), a towel, a dry change of underwear for afterward, and a small bag for your kit. Crucially on modesty — you do not strip fully nude. Men keep underwear or shorts on; women bathe in underwear, usually bottoms (and many keep a top on too). Full nudity is not the norm and would feel out of place. You undress in the changing room, leave clothes and valuables there (bring minimal valuables, and many give a small tip to the attendant who watches belongings), and head in wearing your flip-flops and underwear.

The ritual itself has a rhythm. You move from a warmer room to the hottest, steamy room to open your pores, douse yourself with buckets of warm water (you fill them from taps or a central supply), and lather up with the black soap, letting it sit a few minutes. Then comes the scrub: you can do it yourself with the kessa glove, or — for a small fee — let the kayssala/kessal (the scrubbing attendant) work you over, which is vigorous, a little startling at the amount of dead skin that lifts off, and leaves you ridiculously smooth. Rinse thoroughly, repeat as you like, and rinse off fully before you dress.

Practical etiquette to leave a good impression: keep your voice down and your manner friendly — it's a relaxed social space, and locals appreciate a respectful, smiling visitor; ask before photographing (better, don't, given the undress and privacy); tip the scrubbing attendant if you use one, it's expected and modest; and tip the belongings-watcher a few dirham too. Don't hog the hot taps, and share water-fetching space politely. Afterward you'll have sweated a lot, so drink plenty of water and rest a bit before charging back out. Go with an open mind and basic courtesy, and a public hammam is one of the warmest, most authentic experiences in Morocco.