Where do I buy lanterns and metalwork?

Lanterns and metalwork are one of Morocco’s great signature crafts, and the place to buy them is wherever you can hear the hammering — the metalworkers’ souks of Marrakech and Fes. In Marrakech, head for the Place des Ferblantiers (literally the tinsmiths’ square) and the surrounding lantern workshops, where artisans cut, pierce and solder brass into the lacework lanterns that throw those famous patterned shadows, some plain pierced-metal, others set with coloured "stained" glass. Standing among the shops as they punch the designs by hand is half the pleasure.

Fes brings its own depth to metal. The Place Seffarine, the coppersmiths’ square deep in the old medina, rings all day with the sound of men beating sheets of brass and copper into trays, teapots, basins, lanterns and engraved platters. The work there leans toward the fine and the traditional — hand-engraved trays, hammered serving pieces, the big decorated couscous platters — and watching a craftsman chase a pattern into a tray with a few taps of a punch is mesmerising. Both cities also make the wrought-iron mirrors, candle holders and small furniture you see in the riads.

An honest note on what you are actually buying, because finish quality varies. The best lanterns are cleanly cut, solidly soldered and made of real brass or copper that will age beautifully; cheaper ones are thin tin that dents and tarnishes, with rough joins and glued, not soldered, seams. Coloured glass adds beauty but also fragility for the journey home. If you want a lantern wired for electricity rather than candles, many workshops will fit a fitting for you, but check the wiring suits your country’s system.

My practical guidance: buy from a workshop or settled shop, look closely at the joins and the weight (real metal has heft), and gently flex an edge to feel whether it is sturdy brass or flimsy tin. Lanterns are awkward, hollow and sometimes glassed, so they are prime candidates for professional packing and shipping rather than your suitcase. Agree the price calmly, and if you are buying several pieces, negotiate the set and the shipping together. The hammering soundtrack is your best authenticity check.