How much cash should I carry day to day in Morocco?

Morocco is still very much a cash society for everyday spending, so you do need physical dirhams on you most days — but the trick is carrying the right amount: enough to move through the day freely, not so much that losing your wallet ruins your trip. For a typical day of meals, taxis, mint teas, tips, the odd entry fee and some light souk browsing, I'd suggest most travellers carry somewhere in the region of 300–600 MAD (very roughly 30–60 US dollars). On a day you plan to shop seriously in the souks or pay for a guide or activity in cash, scale up accordingly.

Just as important as the total is the mix of denominations, and this is where people get caught out. The Moroccan economy runs on small change, and big notes are a constant headache — a petit taxi driver, a café, a toilet attendant or a small stall often genuinely can't break a 200 MAD note. So whenever you can, ask for or hoard smaller notes (20s, 50s, 100s) and coins. I make a point of breaking large notes at supermarkets, larger restaurants or my hotel, so that I always have a working float of small money for taxis, tips and quick purchases. Few things are more frustrating than a 5 MAD transaction you can't complete because all you have is a 200.

On security, a few simple habits keep your money safe. Don't carry your entire trip's cash on you at once — take what you need for the day and leave the rest, plus a spare bank card, locked in your accommodation safe. Split your cash between a couple of places on your person (a wallet and a separate pocket or money belt), so a single mishap doesn't clean you out. Be discreet pulling out money in crowded souks, and keep a small "decoy" amount easily reachable so you're not flashing a fat wallet for every small payment.

Topping up is easy, so there's no need to stockpile cash. ATMs are plentiful in cities and towns, so I withdraw a few days' worth at a time rather than either tiny daily sums (too many fees) or one enormous lump (too much to carry and lose). In remote areas — deep desert, small mountain villages — machines are scarce or absent, so the one time to carry more is heading off-grid: draw enough in the last proper town to cover tips, drinks and incidentals until you're back near a bank, since those places are cash-only.

My rule of thumb: a day's worth in small and medium notes in your pocket, a reserve and a backup card in the safe, more drawn before any remote leg, and a constant low-level habit of breaking big notes whenever the chance arises. Follow that and you'll always have the right cash for the moment without ever carrying a worrying amount.